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Q: I have a Sadler 26 GRP yacht with an iron single fin keel. I want to drill through the keel and bolt an anode either side. The exposed metal parts of the boat (stern gland, pintles, hull fittings and sea cocks) would be connected together with a bonding loop within the boat. The top of the keel bolts would be drilled and tapped where the bonding loop would be attached. What would be a good choice of anode?

Best practise would be to place a suitable hull anode close to the prop and shaft. Placing the anode on the keel will greatly increase the distance between the anode and the prop/shaft. If you wish to avoid using a hull mounted anode a better option would be to use a zinc hanging anode. This can be hung over the side of the boat close to the prop and shaft when moored and stowed when under way. The wire is then connected to the engine or gearbox to provide continuity to these items. Another option would be to use a suitable shaft anode. These are good for protection as they bond directly to the items to be protected however it would still be best to use another anode (either hull mounted or hanging anode) to back up this protection.

If the keel is suffering corrosion that is of concern, then anodes will help and should be placed centrally either side of the keel. A typical anode for a keel would be a ZD58 disc anode. This reduces the holes that have to be drilled in the keel which may be a difficult task. If the seacock's are currently not bonded it would be best not add them in, it is unlikely that an anode will provide additional protection as it will not protect the inside working parts. Leaving a good quality seacock in isolation is a better option. If use wish to bond in the stern gland and pintles etc this will be fine.


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Tags: Sadler 26, GRP, yacht

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